Today’s posts from our featured Port Elizabeth Blogger:
“Still writing kak?” said Johnny Paarman to me as we sat waiting for a set at Seals the other day.
“I just saw you fuck-up a take off on a two-foot wave,” I replied with a smile. “That’s worth writing about. Your hip replacement is no excuse”
“I see you’ve lost some more hair,” he replied. “On the top of your head.”
“Careful,” I replied. “There’s another two-foot set coming through, and the next one’s yours. Go over the falls on this one and you’re going to have to go in. Local rules. If you’re nervous, just tell me, ok? Can’t be wasting any more waves of the day.”
The big wave legend with a false hip caught that set wave, got to his feet and rode it all the way through with a smile on his face.
Can’t say I blame them. Being a pro surfer must be very unsettling when a Code Red swell blips on the forecast, and you need to get out there. It’ll probably be a small wave shoot-out between Filipe and Gabriel, or maybe John John and Jordy, but not Kelly and Parko.
This caused fellow Australian surfers Gary Green and Bryce Ellis to remove themselves from the entry list, with both withdrawing because they were too shit scared to paddle out into forty foot close-outs at a wave neither had ever surfed before.
Word count including this sentence and header – 400. By Craig Jarvis
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